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Fantastic, I wish that I knew about that when I was surfing in the late 70's ,all I got to do was North Shore. That has to be one hell of a rush riding a wave that size and not wiping out. J.R.
Fantastic, I wish that I knew about that when I was surfing in the late 70's ,all I got to do was North Shore. That has to be one hell of a rush riding a wave that size and not wiping out. J.R.
Sal, I was 20 years old , bullet proof and looking for a bigger thrill. I bodysurfed Sunset a week before the Pipeline Classic and let me tell you catching a tube without a board is a rush, it also hurts like hell when it pounds you to the bottom a couple of times, But the saying goes what don't kill will only make you stronger. J.R.
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