ummmmmm put an inline fuse going to each bulb, that way the fuse will blow before the bulb and it will be cheaper to replace fuses vs. bulbs.
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Originally posted by Got Gear?
What's this dumdum stuff? Never heard of it...
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Originally posted by pudgy
its the tar ooking stuff aroundyour evaporator box. it seals the ac evaporator . it come in flat rools and is very squishy. i used to seal ported spealer boxes with it.
Ladiesman: The fuse idea won't work. The lightbulb blows because the filament is red-hot and weak.. otherwise it'd handle the vibes. The fuse won't get hot..
Something else I wanted to mention to you guys: These bulbs are dual filament bulbs. The driving lights run off the small filament.. the brake and signal lights use the larger filament. It's only the larger filament that's blowing. I'm guessing because it's longer and moves more with the vibrations.RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.
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Originally posted by Got Gear?
It's all on 1 battery.. Optima Yellow Top.
I'm curious as to why you think I need another battery. Low voltage won't burn out a light... and I doubt that I'm getting any voltage spikes (past 15V anyway). I have a voltmeter mounted in the car.. and yes the voltage will drop as low as 10.5V during a good long bass beat.. but it never seems to go above 14.4V.
I also have a 1 Farad Stiffening cap in there to help smooth out voltages..
I like the idea of insulating around the lights to draw back some of the vibrations, should work just fine!
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