Tweetturn down the stereo
lol...no idea bro
TweetHey guys,
You may remember my post about me being an idiot cause I spent a whole bunch of time trying to figure out why my lights wouldn't work....and the problem turned out to be a couple of burnt out lightbulbs.
I replaced the bulbs on Tuesday and they're burnt out already!
After some fooling around, I think I've found the culprit!! The two 12" subs, a 15" sub, and the 1000W stereo system! Turns out that the stereo system shakes these bulbs so hard that they burn out when you put your foot on the brake and the bass hits. (combintion of vibration and the red-hot filament).
I've already looked into those LED lights, but they only seem to make these for newer cars and ricers.. nothing for a 1970 mustang.
Any ideas? And NO! I'm not turning the stereo down
RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.
Tweetturn down the stereo
lol...no idea bro
TweetTurn the stereo down
TweetNo matter what those lights shouldn't be going out that easily! I'd contact the manufacturer & complain!
Do you have your current system running off the primary battery?
Tweetdynomatt the trunk.
TweetRun your system off an additional battery
TweetThat won't stop the vibrations......Originally posted by bjtheman
Run your system off an additional battery
TweetOriginally posted by bjtheman
Run your system off an additional battery
It's all on 1 battery.. Optima Yellow Top.
I'm curious as to why you think I need another battery. Low voltage won't burn out a light... and I doubt that I'm getting any voltage spikes (past 15V anyway). I have a voltmeter mounted in the car.. and yes the voltage will drop as low as 10.5V during a good long bass beat.. but it never seems to go above 14.4V.
I also have a 1 Farad Stiffening cap in there to help smooth out voltages..
RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.
TweetWhy don't you try to pad the bulbs somehow so the vibrations are limited? Maybe with some electrical tape or something?
TweetIt's done already..A little.Originally posted by pudgy
dynomatt the trunk.
Dynamat works best for getting out the rattles.. it does this by aborbing higher frequency sounds...not by stopping the vibrations.
You can litterally see the metal taillight panals move about 1cm back and forth..at like 30-80 times a second..
RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.
TweetWell the problem is that the tailights are mounted inside a metal housing.. this housing is mounted to the metal trunk pannel. This whole pannel flexes approx 1cm when the bass hits.. which means the taillight housing along with the bulbs also get shaken. It's not the bulbs vibrating in the housing's, it's the whole housing rattleing..Originally posted by LadiesMan
Why don't you try to pad the bulbs somehow so the vibrations are limited? Maybe with some electrical tape or something?
RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.
Tweettry insulating the bulb socket with dumdumOriginally posted by Got Gear?
It's done already..A little.
Dynamat works best for getting out the rattles.. it does this by aborbing higher frequency sounds...not by stopping the vibrations.
You can litterally see the metal taillight panals move about 1cm back and forth..at like 30-80 times a second..
TweetWhat's this dumdum stuff? Never heard of it...Originally posted by pudgy
try insulating the bulb socket with dumdum
RIP BigJim33 & GearedUp: You are sorely missed my friends.
Hindsight is always 20/20. But looking back it's still a bit fuzzy.