probs with modding cars

[jipped genes]

Tweetwell my GTO is reliable enough but with the big cam it sometimes dies at lights with the AC on even with an under drive pulley.

the exhaust needs to be adjusted frequently as the vibration and torque break welds and it ends up hitting the suspension or rearend.

its loud as hell, long trips the drone will deafen you

it shakes and lopes (its hell with a hangover)

the clutch just cant keep up with the motor and needs to be changed. it was fine stock ($1000+ for a HP clutch and install, no i aint doing it myself)

mods decrease the value of the car

exhaust smells bad and burns your eyes




but damn its fast, sounds great and looks cool

[jamescb77]

Tweetso whats the problem here lol. sounds like everything that you knew you were getting into. I don't think you hsould be breaking exhaust welds though and things shaking lose. maybe you have a broke mount somewhere allowing extra vibration.

[alluprbdy]

TweetDunno why your welds are breaking, my cams are 242/246 so I got a pretty good shake goin on but never broke welds. Which welds are going? And as far as clutch goes Spec stage 3+ will do you good man and save yourself some cash and do it yourself

[tn94z]

TweetI had the cc306:

Duration - 230/244
Lift - .510/.544
LSA - 112

in my old 94 and never broke any welds either. I think something else is wrong. I also had a cam only 98TA that would pull the wheels knee high (lots of torque) and never broken any welds

[G-reg]

Tweetsound like you need to get it dyno tuned maped and all... that will cure the idle prob. at least it did on 8 of my 13 mustangs i have had. from mild to wild{410w to hot built 4 valve 4.6 cobra}

[jipped genes]

Tweet

I had the cc306:

Duration - 230/244
Lift - .510/.544
LSA - 112

in my old 94 and never broke any welds either. I think something else is wrong. I also had a cam only 98TA that would pull the wheels knee high (lots of torque) and never broken any welds

.228 .602 with a 110 LSA (should have gone with a 112)

i think the reason i am breaking stuff is the shock to the driveline on drag radials when i launched hard. an auto preloads the driveline. also i have an IRS and get violent when hop which shakes the crap out of the car. i have drag bags but i havent installed them until i get a clutch. even my street tires wheel hop. 9actually running RE01R tires which are sticky as hell. i hope to get 5000 miles out of em. the gto with me and gas weighs about 4000 #. heavy hog

had a 550 HP stang that i launched with a 250 shot of spray and a 4500 rpm convertor and never broke anything (solid rear axel with a spool) it weighed 3200 with me in it

it is tuned with LS edit its the lobe center that hurts my idle but damn it sounds cool as hell.

[alluprbdy]

TweetBetter watch that wheel hop man you'll break that IRS pretty quick doin that

[jipped genes]

Tweet

Better watch that wheel hop man you'll break that IRS pretty quick doin that

yeah, i need a clutch, 1 piece driveshaft,and axel stubs.

thats alot of $$$

[alluprbdy]

Tweetya I'd just save up for a solid axle swap, I hate putting an IRS in anything

[jipped genes]

Tweet

ya I'd just save up for a solid axle swap, I hate putting an IRS in anything

i dont want to change the whole rear axle assembly to a solid. then i loose some handleing and the real fine ride. there are guys running turbo X2 setups with IRS and pulling high 9s. i think i can definately handle 480-500 RW HP with a good set of stubs, drag bags and new springs