broke 300...

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Tweetmiles yesterday on the new 6. I've been keeping on point with break in...varying rpm's, just a couple of short 12k blasts to closed throttle to create a vaccuum, so yesterday when I took it out, it had just over 270 very particular miles on it. I went out to my little spot where I play track, and got to feel the powerband for the first time. I probably went thru a half tank. I got it on up into the powerband plenty but stayed well away from redline/shift light. I wasn't sure about the power of it until yesterday. It's a beast though, and has allot of power up in the rpm's. I gotta get used to power like that, meaning; an R6 is 2 different worlds from one half of the rpm range to the other. wow! is a good word for the top end. It's almost rediculous how it comes alive.

I'm very satisfied now. I needed that reassurance.

so, now it's time for first oil change. Then again between 600 & 700miles. Then she'll be ready for all out, no holds barred.

[FUZO]

TweetHORSE ISNT A OIL CHANGE AT 500-600 MILES OR ARE YOUDOING IT BECAUSE YOU RACED IT. TRY TO GET ON A HAYABUSI AND RUN WITH THAT . NOW YOU WILL SEE SOME POWER.

[O2BESOHUGE]

TweetI ALWAYS DID MY FIRST ONE AT 600 MILES

MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE BIKE THROUGH AS MANY HEAT CYCLES AS YOU CAN DURING BREAK IN

THEN GIVE IT HELL!!

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HORSE ISNT A OIL CHANGE AT 500-600 MILES OR ARE YOUDOING IT BECAUSE YOU RACED IT. TRY TO GET ON A HAYABUSI AND RUN WITH THAT . NOW YOU WILL SEE SOME POWER.

yeah, those busas have plenty of power...Make good drag bikes. You're lap time would go to shyt on that bigole 600lb beast. A busa makes up for a short peter... "I ride a hayabusa"...,lol...nah, they do make good 1/4mile bikes, and show bikes.

And yeah, you guys are right. They say change the oil between 600-1000, "depending on your riding style", but allot of shavings come off in that first 300, hence the 2-3 short high rpm blasts, then immediately close throttle. Get it out of the motor. And changing the oil, gets it out of the motor. I'm just particular about it. The most ideal break in is 300/600/900mile oil changes. Never riding at a steady RPM etc etc...that's the race bike regimen. Some do 1st change @ 100miles. The heat cycles are critical too. The bike will be faster with proper break in. Not that the bike shop instructions are wrong, but that's the consumer safe advice at the cost of power.

It's something how you can hear the engine breaking in.

[FUZO]

TweetHORSEY YOUR NOT SUPPOSED TO GET ON YOUR BIKE UNTIL AFTER 500 MILES BE NICE TO HER THEN LET IT RIP,LOL

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Tweetyes yes...I know...that's what the guy at the bike shop tells ya, and that is true to some degree. What's much more important than that, and they always fail to tell the buyer, is not to 'labor' the bike. Laboring or "lugging" the engine is worse than high RPM. Lugging the motor is the worst thing you can do to a bike during break in and the bike shops never even mention it. At least I've never been told not to, nor anybody that I know, and that is critical advice.

I've had, or am having I should say, near perfect break in conditions. My commute time to work is 10-15 minutes, so it has perfect heat cycles, constant load variations...able to get the short acceleration bursts...perfect. It's been good. The professional engine builder or pro race sportbike mechanics agree that high rpm is needed, and slow going, really babying it thru break in will result in a slow bike. Not meaning flash the shiftlight right from the showroom floor, but a couple of short high acceleration bursts are needed after some heat cycles, and let it see some high rpm's after 300miles. There are rpm ranges that you want to hit at each phase of mileage. Keep it out of the rpm's throughout break-in and you end up with a slow bike.

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TweetHere, I found this real quick and skimmed thru and it looks like a pretty decent break in regimen. It looks like this is the dude from Vance & Hines...he should know his shyt.
..........................................

The first few hundred miles of a new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last.
We asked four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Their answer:

Piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption.

If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don't lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.), NO synthetics, they're too slippery, if used during initial break-in the rings are sure to glaze.

Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relatively low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking-in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down.

The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear.

Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, so get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don't be shy about short-duration high-rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to synthetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking-in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. It's that simple.

So that's it, sure is a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super-cautious at the expense of your motor's performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break-in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up. For what it's worth, on the VF1000R, the slower break-in showed better leakdown at 4000 miles than at 1500, and I suspect that the go-slow method of the factory recommendations are looked at more for simplicities sake than for other effects.

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TweetAlso, have you noticed allot of sportbikes will blow alittle smoke when you rev them? I figured it's just normal. And it may be. I know allot of them do...new ones, old ones...you'll see a little smoke on a good engine rev. I really noticed it over the past week checking out different pipes on youtube. Almost every bike does it.

[O2BESOHUGE]

TweetMINE NEVER BLOWS SMOKE....STEAM MAYBE BECAUSE THE PIPES ARE COLD AND THE ENGINE'S HEAT IS GETTING TO THE COLD PIPES....BUT NO SMOKE

[O2BESOHUGE]

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Also, have you noticed allot of sportbikes will blow alittle smoke when you rev them? I figured it's just normal. And it may be. I know allot of them do...new ones, old ones...you'll see a little smoke on a good engine rev. I really noticed it over the past week checking out different pipes on youtube. Almost every bike does it.

THOSE WERE ALL YAMAHAS BLOWING SMOKE!!

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Tweetlol...probably

mine isn't smoking though,lol